Sunday 9 October 2011

Day 3 South to Denali

Day 3
SOUTH TO DENALI VILLAGE

George Alexander Parks was an American engineer that became Alaska's first resident governor and we followed the road named after him as we travelled south to Denali Village. Through the northern boreal forests we journeyed alongside the Tanana River to reach the Nanana River Valley. Near the confluence of these rivers we came across what had been once a trading post for river travellers - Nenana.

The last river tug, the Taku Chief lies like a beached whale outside the visitors centre.

In the 1920's it served as a railroad construction camp and was the place where President Warren Harding drove the golden spike that marked the completion of the Alaska Railroad between Seward and Fairbanks, 15th July, 1923.
Outside the general store and gift shop

 lower grade salmon had been left to dry in the traditional way prior to use as dog food.

Each year people from all across the state place bets on when the ice will go out on the Tanana. Any movement of the river ice shifts a four-legged "tripod" which pulls a cord which, in turn, trips a clock on an adjacent tower.
For the rest of the morning the highway and river flow side by side. First across the flats north of Healy and then through a narrower valley where the river flows more quickly as it descends from the Alaska Range. Arriving at Denali Village we could look down on the settlement below from the Grande Denali Lodge, our hotel. Denali Village is the gateway to the national park and consists almost entirely of enormous hotels, RV parks, lodges, restaurants and outdoor activity operators. It has earned the name "Glitter Gulch".

The view southwards from the hotel terrace was bereft of any development.
In the distance the Alaska Range stretches across the horizon. To the left a sweeping curve of the Nanana River, in the centre the Parks Highway disappears into the distance and the narrow road leading to the entrance of the national park can be seen on the right.






In the evening we were treated to a 'true to life' Gold Rush tale of adventure in the early 1900's. Talented performers told and acted the tale of Fanny Quigley a real life pioneer in the Kantishna area, deep in the Denali National Park. There was humour, lively music and colourful acting incorporating 'stars' from the audience.
The actors did double duty as table waiters serving an 'authentic' road house meal.

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